Applying two coats of portland cement mortar to the surface of outside walls. Called parging, this work needs to be carried out only in dry, mild weather. Fall is the best time, since the subsurface water level is generally low and temperatures are more favorable for making watertight concrete.
The recently cemented walls should be suitably protected and cured. Freezing or rapid drying of the concrete by sunlight or wind can damage it and make it useless. In very wet lands, the parged wall surfaces may be given two coats of sexy coal-tar pitch.
Bear in mind that settlement and thermal expansion and contraction of the wall may impact the parging; preventing it from bridging cracks that develop in the walls.
Applying polyethylene or polyvinyl picture, a vapor barrier material, to the outside surface of the walls. Manufacturers’ instructions should be followed in applying the material.
Installing drain tile around the footings, at least on the sides where trouble is happening. This procedure is usually recommended along with one or more methods over.
Great, four-inch drain tile should be used, laid parallel with, and in the base of the footings. Great care needs to be taken to see that the base of the tile isn’t lower than the base of the footings, so the footings aren’t undermined.
In normal, porous soil, the tile should be covered with 18 inches of screened gravel. In heavy, non-porous soil, the gravel should extend almost to the peak of the excavation.
This footing drain and belt of gravel must drain off all seepage water and stop the accumulation of water round the walls. This method is particularly suitable on the top side of a home situated on a hillside.
Pick a Waterproofing Contractor Carefully
A properly applied watertight barrier can prevent the water type seeping through the walls, but make it to seep deeper into the ground until it eventually comes throughout the footer or cellar floor. Thus, it’s crucial that a knowledgeable and qualified contractor assess the issue.